This summer we planned a trip to Ladakh. Ladakh is located in the northern tip of India, to the west of the Himalayas. It is surrounded by Pakistan, Tibet, China and Nepal. Wherever you see, there are mountains with soaring heights and steep sided, jagged, snow capped peaks. Each one is a different color. Some look like shiny black granite, others are buff colored and look sandy; while some are red. Many rivers flow from these mountain ranges along with wild snow melts, serene river valleys and dramatic sangams (confluence of two rivers). There is beauty all around you!
Ladakh is full of ancient monasteries. These monasteries are not just a single structure but they are like mini cities with many different temples and living quarters of the monks, connected by narrow, winding paths. They are usually situated on top of a hill so the views are magnificent!
They have colorful entryways, brightly colored pillars, stupas and monks in maroon colored robes going about their business.
Leading up to the main temple areas are rows and rows of prayer wheels. These are cylindrical structures with the mantra “Om mani padme hum” written in Tibetan language. You twist them clockwise as you recite the mantra and a small protrusion inside rings the bell as it rotates. According to Tibetan culture, turning the prayer wheel gives you good karma!
Another prominent decoration you see everywhere are the prayer flags; rows of brightly colored fabrics with blessings written on them. Faded prayer flags fluttering in the wind; hanging between two peaks in high places, or strung between the handlebars of motorbikes or in the middle of a market square. According to Tibetan culture, the blessings written on the flags will reach all beings in their presence.
Some of my favorite monasteries are Alchi Choskor, a UNESCO world heritage site. This ancient monastic complex has many temples with giant deities and well preserved paintings all over the wall. It is located on the south bank of the Indus river.
Diskit Gompa is the most scenic monastery and it's located in Nubra valley. It has a giant statue of the Maitreya Buddha facing down the Shyok river and situated in a serene atmosphere amidst the tall mountain ranges. As we were visiting the last of the temples here, a monk summoned us inside a dining area and offered some tea and snacks. We sat down and enjoyed the view of the giant statue of Buddha through the windows.
Ladakh has some of the highest motorable mountain passes. We drove through the Chang la pass and Khardung la pass. At their peak, the elevation was close to 18000 feet. You can see snow capped peaks and glaciers all around you even in the peak of Summer. From the top of Chang la pass, we could see the Karakoram mountain range.
Shyok river rises from the Siachen glacier in the Karakoram range and flows along the mountain ranges. Many smaller, wild snow melts join the Shyok river along its journey. It makes a dramatic U turn near Shyok village and then flows north to join the Nubra river. The river valleys created by it is beautiful and serene; surrounded by giant mountains. We made an unplanned stop here, just to take in the beauty of it all. We spent time dipping our toes in the icy cold water; walking carefully on the innumerable and colorful pebbles.
At Nubra Valley, we tried on traditional Ladakhi costumes and jewelry. In the pic below, I am wearing Sulma ( flowing robe), Skeyrak (belt), Yogar ( square cape worn around the shoulder) and Tipi ( top hat).
Next, we drove to Pangong lake which is a pristine, land locked lake surrounded by mountains. I am not sure if it’s due to the fresh, unpolluted air,14,000 feet elevation or the contrast of the buff colored, sandy mountain ranges all around; the color of this lake is just out of this world! It’s the bluest blue, the most vibrant hue of blue you have ever seen.
This lake is only accessible on one side. The other side belongs to the army as it borders China. Siachen glacier is close to the lake.
We saw many animals unique to this area during our trip. The Yaks, Bactrian camels, Marmots and Pashmina goats.
These goats are only found in Changtang, which is a high altitude (>14,000 ft) cold desert which stretches across Tibet and Ladakh. The extreme temperature in this region ( 30F in summer to -31F in winter) is ideal for the goats to develop ultra fine and soft Pashmina undercoats to survive these harsh winters.
These goats are mostly owned and herded by a nomad community called Changpas. Changthang goats are their most important source of income as these fine Pashmina wool is used to make the finest and softest Pashmina shawls and stoles.
We also visited a self help women’s cooperative which makes hand spun, hand woven and naturally dyed Pashmina shawls, stoles, caps and other baby products.
On the last day at Leh, We had so much fun shopping at the Leh market! They have many stalls set up by the artisans who sell silver jewelry, corals, turquoise etc… You also find shops that sell Pashmina shawls, Kashmiri embroidery, prayer bowls, prayer flags, books and so much more!
Overall, this was a trip of a lifetime that I will remember and cherish for years! Julley :)